How to Shape: Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial

Part #1: Brow Mapping

1. Using an inked thread, mark the center of the face and create a vertical line. I use the client’s eyes and forehead to find the center mark. Avoid using the client’s nose, the cupid’s bow or the client’s brow hair to find the center of the face since these features tend to be asymmetrical.
2. Apply the sticker ruler onto the client’s forehead making sure the center line on the sticker ruler lines up with the vertical line we crated in step 1.
3. Create a horizontal line with the inked thread to mark the highest point of the eyebrows on one eyebrow. If the eyebrows are asymmetrical, meet in the middle. Check the measurements of the horizontal line on the sticker ruler and replicate the horizontal line on the other eyebrow.
4. Create a vertical line with the inked thread to mark the tip of the arch on one eyebrow. I tend to use the client’s natural brow hair to find her arch. Using the measurement on the sticker ruler, replicate the line on the other eyebrow.
5. Using a fine-point Sharpie pen, mark a dot where the two lines meet. This is point #1.
6. Create a vertical line to mark the front of the eyebrows. Replicate on the other side.
7. Create a diagonal line to mark the end of the tail. Replicate on the other side.
8. Using the inked thread create the rest of the brow. I generally follow my client’s natural brow shape. Create a line for the top of the body of the brow, the bottom of the body of the brow, the top of the tail and the bottom of the tail.
9. Using the Sharpie, mark the remainder 4 points. Make a point at the top of the front, bottom of the front, bottom of the arch, and the tail.
10. Clean any excessive lines with an alcohol prep pad or water wipe to keep your work area clean.
11. Find the front of the other eyebrow by creating horizontal lines across the middle of the face. Make sure the two horizontal lines are parallel to each other to ensure they are even. Double check your measurement using a caliper. Once you’ve double checked the measurement, mark the top and bottom of the front of the brows using a Sharpie.
12. Measure the distance between the top of the arch and the bottom of the arch from the first eyebrow and replicate those points on the second eyebrow.
13. Measure the distance between the tail and the edge of the eye on the first eyebrow using a caliper to replicate point #5 on the second brow. 
14. Now that you have all 5 points on the second brow, connect those points using an ink thread. Clean any excessive lines.

Part #2: Pre-Draw

1. Using your brow pencil, round out the top of the arch and the bottom of the arch.
2. Fill in the brow shape using your brow pencil. Keep the front of the brow light to mimic the front ombré. Blend the pre-draw using a spoolie or q-tip, if needed. Repeat with the other eyebrows.
3. Set aside a portion of concealer using a disposable applicator (q-tip, lip wand, etc.) onto the back of your hand (on your glove). This is to avoid constantly dipping your concealer brush into the concealer pot and cross-contaminating.
4. With your concealer and concealer brush, conceal the pre-draw. Using the tip of your concealer brush, use small and steady motions to ensure straight and defined lines.